Jonathan

"Pulitzer recipients almost always are employees of established daily publications," notes the San Diego Union-Tribune. The paper also points out that Gold's Pulitzer was the first awarded to a food critic. "I always thought you had to have a grown-up job doing something like reviewing operas at The New York Times to get a Pulitzer, not writing about taco stands for the (LA) Weekly," Gold says.

The newly minted Pulitzer-winning LA Weekly food critic talks process with On the Media's Brooke Gladstone, saying he doesn't take notes and shies away from fancy food vocabulary and Latinate synonyms. "It must be said that there is only one word that means 'salty,' and if you try to get beyond something being salty -- you know, briny or oceanic -- you're overwriting, and the prose suffers," Gold says. Noting Gold's "intense" devotion to meat, Gladstone asks the critic if he receives letters from vegans demanding equal time. "Yeah, I get letters from vegans, usually more in sorrow than in anger," he says, adding that he also gets a lot of letters from Jewish people complaining that he writes "an awful lot about pork." Over a meal of huaraches with a succulent beef brain and more, Gold tells the Washington Post's William Booth he's eaten at somewhere between 5,000 and 10,000 restaurants in LA, and that he finds new haunts by scouring ethnic newspapers. "I don't understand a word of it, but they list an address and I go," he says.

Co-host Michele Norris praises the Pulitzer-winning LA Weekly food critic for having "a very expansive view" of what being a restaurant critic is all about. "You wouldn't believe how many bad meals I eat in order to find the ones I review every week," Gold says. He visited a particular Taiwanese restaurant 17 times -- "until I figured out what the aesthetic was," he says -- even though he despised the food. "I described one dish there as being bitter -- not bitter like coffee, but bitter like cancer medicine," Gold says. "But I meant it in a good way."

"The Pulitzer Prize is something that, when you're a food writer, you don't even dream about," the LA Weekly food critic says. The AP says Gold's win boosted morale at the paper, which has "weathered several layoffs" since the Village Voice Media merger with New Times. "Maybe this means they won't fire me this year," Gold jokes. His wife and Weekly editor Laurie Ochoa says the Pulitzer is "especially sweet" and adds: "Now it's official: There is no conflict of interest when I say he's a great critic." VVM executive editor Michael Lacey tells the AP the Pulitzer win shows "alternative papers are beginning to get the respect they've earned."

Jonathan Gold was awarded this year's prize for criticism, becoming the first food critic ever to win a Pulitzer. The judges praised Gold's "zestful, wide ranging restaurant reviews, expressing the delight of an erudite eater." Gold finished in first place for Food Writing in 2005's AltWeekly Awards and is a four-time James Beard winner. This marks the sixth Pulitzer awarded to an AAN member: The Village Voice's Teresa Carpenter won for feature writing (1981); the Voice's Jules Feiffer won for cartooning (1986); the Boston Phoenix's Lloyd Schwartz won for criticism (1994); the Voice's Mark Schoofs won for international reporting (2000); and Willamette Week's Nigel Jaquiss won for investigative reporting (2005). UPDATE: See scenes from LA Weekly's celebration of Gold's win. Read AAN News' Feb. 2006 interview with Gold.